Mounds wild bird seed comes in three formulas:
White Millet, Black Oil Sunflower, and Cracked Corn.
White Millet, Black Oil Sunflower, Striped Sunflower, Cracked Corn and Safflower.
Fine Sunflower Chips, White Millet, Nyjer, Flax Seed, Canary Seed, and Red Millet.
As always Mounds wild bird seed comes with our 100% satisfaction guarantee.
Frequent Buyer Club
Join the Mounds Wild Bird Seed Frequent Buyer club! Upon your purchase of every 10th bag of Mounds Wild Bird Seed (40 pound bag) you get your 11th bag free!
Tips for Attracting Birds to Your Back Yard
Purchasing specialty feeders that allow only “select” birds to feed will discourage unwanted birds and pests, letting you enjoy the birds you want to see.
Look for feeders with drainage holes in the bottom of both the feed hopper and the seed tray. This will allow seeds and bird droppings to pass through.
Store your bird food in a tight container so mice and other rodents don’t get into it. Mice can carry diseases that can be passed on to birds. Discard food that smells musty, is wet, or has mold or fungus growing on it.
Pick a location that is easy to get to for refilling and cleaning. No matter which type of feeder you choose, there tends to be discarded seed shells, picked through seeds, and bird droppings.
Birds like to be able to have an easy escape from predators. Place your feeder near bushes, trees, plants or tall grass so they can quickly hide.
Some windows present problems for birds. Either put the feeder directly up to the window or considerable distance away. When a bird is feeding and gets frightened, the further away the window, the less likely it is for the bird to fly into the window and become injured.
Cats love birds. Place your feeder in a spot where your cat can see the birds, but where he cannot reach them.
Squirrels are a big problem for feeders. The best advice is to buy a feeder with a baffle, or try placing the feeder where the squirrel will have trouble getting to it, such as on a pole or against the house.
|Type of Bird
|| Diameter of entrance hole
|Flicker, Northern||2 1/2″|
|Flycatcher||1 1/2″ to 2 1/2″|
|Owl, Common Barn||6″ to 8″|
|Owl, Screech||2 1/2″ to 4″|
|Swallow, Tree||1 1/2″|
|Warbler, Prothonotary||1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″|
|Woodpecker, Red-Bellied||2 1/2″|
|Woodpecker, Sowny||1 1/4″|
|Wren, Carolina||1 1/2″|
|Wren, House||1″ to 1 1/4″|
|Wren, Winter||1″ to 1 1/4″|
The area below the entrance hole inside the house should be a bit rough so that birds can get a grip when climbing out. A birdhouse should not have a perch in front of the entrance hole; this will only encourage problem birds.
Make sure all houses have ventilation holes at the top of the walls. The houses should also have small drainage holes in the floor in case water gets in the house. There should be either a removable roof or a hinged side to allow for cleaning. Each time a brood is fledged (the baby birds have left), open up the house, sweep out the old nest, and wash the house with water.
Most birds do not like swaying bird houses, except for wrens. Firmly anchor the house to a post, tree, or the side of a building. Location of the bird house is important. Consider the kind of nesting conditions the birdhouse is meant to duplicate. Some research may be needed as to the nesting habitat of a particular bird.
For more great tips, feeders and seed, visit your local Mounds location.